I Tried At-Home Dermaplaning and I’m Not Sure How to Feel
Besides exfoliating the skin and removing hair, dermaplaning also has mild anti-aging benefits, too. Sadick says that the scraping creates subclinical (microscopic) wounds in the skin. After you scrape, the “skin reacts by regulating certain growth factors, like fibroblasts and vascular, which in turn stimulate collagen production,” Sadick says. This collagen production, in turn, improves skin quality and reduces wrinkles.
What dermaplaning won’t really help with, though, according to most of the dermatologists I spoke with for this story, is acne. However, Sadick did say dermaplaning can be great at removing blackheads and comedones because the exfoliation “unroofs blocked glandular structures.” And since it’s such an excellent exfoliating treatment, products like moisturizer and serum penetrate the skin better post-treatment, said all the dermatologists I talked to.
As for the primary promised result? Supersmooth skin for days. “Dermaplaning produces immediate results of even skin texture and tone,” adds Kerry Benjamin, an aesthetician and the founder of StackedSkincare spa in Los Angeles.
But it’s really important to note there’s a difference between in-office and at-home dermaplaning.
In an in-office setting, a straight-edge razor or a surgical #10 scalpel (it has a curved edge) is used by a licensed professional, such as a dermatologist, aesthetician, or a registered nurse at a medical spa, according to Benjamin. As mentioned earlier, the nonsurgical procedure involves no downtime. Dermaplaning sessions can cost anywhere from $40 to $150, depending where you go.
Because we live in a DIY world, “more and more popular professional treatments are now moving over the counter so consumers can perform them themselves,” says Joshua Zeichner, the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. That now includes dermaplaning because many people can’t find a qualified professional, the time for the treatment, or the cash to have it done, he adds. These days, a scalpel and an appointment aren’t needed to try out it out. Safe at-home devices with goofproof blades are now available that replicate the treatment (and are the ones I gave a whirl myself).
You have a few at-home dermaplaning options.
For this story, I worked with some trust in myself (because you can’t hold a sharp object to your face and have little faith) and two different at-home dermaplaning devices. One of them, the Dermaflash, is available now. It costs $189 and comes with six single-use blades. This was the far more techy-looking devices of the two, and it’s also Instagram candy — makeup artists such as Ashunta Sheriff, Isabel Bedoya, and Laura Lee have been spotted flaunting the Dermaflash on their accounts recently.